Thousands of hand-stitches bring an Ascot Chang suit to life
The Ascot Chang house style is designed for the modern business professional. Our suit jackets utilise a lightweight canvas for a comfortable, classic jacket that retains excellent shape over each wear. Moderate padding and roped sleeves are incorporated to frame the shoulders, while curved lapels and a high notch are cut according to your build for a stronger silhouette.
For our bespoke program, we offer more flexibility outside of our house style. For example, we have extensive experience cutting casual jackets with an even lighter canvas, no shoulder padding, a natural sleevehead and a 3-roll-2 button stance.
FULL CANVAS CONSTRUCTION
Our traditional suit jackets are fully canvassed, providing life and structure to each tailored garment. Our lightweight canvas consists of wool and camel hair, combined with a horsehair chest-piece for a strong silhouette . Invisible to the outsider, the canvas is hand-stitched into the jacket, allowing the overall jacket to maintain its shape, while molding to your body’s form over time.
HAND ROLLED LAPEL
For a suit jacket, we believe that the lapels are one of the most important features on a jacket; in order to achieve the most natural-looking lapel roll, all of our lapels are meticulously shaped and pad-stitched by hand. This process results in a full-bodied roll down to the buttoning point that cannot be reproduced by a machine or interlining.
As the suit is being made, our master tailors use a hot iron to manipulate the cloth so that the fabric begins to follow the contours of the body. For example, fabric over the chest will be gently stretched out, while waist areas will be shrunken in.
After the fabric is shaped, it will then be sewn into the canvas, locking in the shaping performed by the tailor. Suits made with this process possess a subtle elegance that moulds to the client’s body over time.
HAND MADE COLLAR
Our jacket collars are shaped and attached by hand to ensure a natural fit around the neck. Too tight, and the entire jacket feels constricting and heavy. Too loose and the collar gapes off of the neck. Finding the perfect balance is the secret to every bespoke jacket.
HAND ATTACHED SLEEVE
Hand-attached sleeves are essential to a bespoke jacket. A special hand-sewn technique is used to “melt” a larger sleeve circumference into a smaller armhole, resulting in a jacket that allows for greater range of motion.
HAND FINISHED DETAILS
Lastly, we provide a great deal of hand-finished details as a final touch on our bespoke garments. The most important of which is probably our handsewn buttonholes, which are done to provide both a clean appearance and easy fastening. We also provide precise pickstiching and tackstiching.
Handsewn buttonholes provide the perfect finishing flourish to our bespoke suits. The subtle beauty of each buttonhole comes from years of practice; the transformation of painstaking technique into an art form.